Highly recommended climbing route on Slovenia's Mala Mojstrovka
Move Your Limits

Climbing in Alps is challenging: corrosive rock and sometimes demanding navigation stand for a high barrier to entry in world of alpinism. We examine one of the best routes to get started.

Alps are stunning beautiful. Expect numerous peaks scattered all around the horizon with deep valleys between them covered in thick fog creating a mystic atmosphere. Up on the climb, rock isn't necessarily always very stable and it's a challenge to climber's skill and mental clarity. Holds are covered with traces of scree, and if all this doesn’t deter most sports climbers, then it’s the fact that most routes are clean – no bolts or few anchoring stations. We agree with keeping the mountains as they are. It should be motivation for raising the bar for each and every climber, rather than adjusting the mountain so that we lower the bar for people. However one needs to start somewhere - and great routes are sometimes hard to find.

The tipping point is always the trickiest moment. How do you go from the first training to the basic climbing fitness? Transition from the climbing gym to the first outdoor climb? Or the question here: switch from sports climbing to longer alpine climb? Having an experienced climber along always helps, but it’s not detrimental to get a side tip – here is our recommendation for a great entry level climb in Slovenian Alps.

We were up on Vršić pass exploring some routes for our upcoming skitouring season and decided to do two 200m climbs up to one of the peaks underneath Mala Mojstrovka peak. The area is a great hub to venture out to some well marked and boulted routes. There is simple to find 30minute walk to the start of a couple of well marked routes: IV- and IV+ graded routes equipped and maintained for the nearby mountaineering school. It offers some great climbing and stunning views of the area. It took less than 2 hours to do each route and it's easy to get there. Highly recommended.

Here's a few tips for doing this trip on your own.
The route
The routes are Pocarska (IV-) and Pstuh (IV+). Entrance to both routes are literally 25m away. From the top there is a easy traverse over the ridge to Grebenec where you'll see a hiking trail leading down to the base through a couloir.
There is a couple of  mountain huts for accommodation. A classic would be Erjavčeva Koča. Other options are Poštarski Dom, Tičarjev Dom or the newest (and newly rennovated) house - Tonkina Koča.
Start point
You leave your car at Vršić Pass. Kind gentleman will come to settle the 3 Euro fee for car parking.
1 day trip  
Route planning resources:
Route description for Pocarska route is here: http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=14772
Route description for Pstuh route is here: http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=28778


‘Moving your limits’ isn’t necessarily about the highest mountains, deepest canyons or oldest ruins. But it is about great adventures. It’s about that constant pursuit of world’s secrets – cultural as well as natural. It’s about how we move in the nature and raise our expectations about each and every place in the world, moving our mental and physical limits on the way.

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